My 72 Sport Custom F100 (Shes alive!) 10-21-2010

[OldRedFord]

I wish I had more to update. I am hoping to be able to scrounge up enough money to get a new brake booster. Then the brake system will be finished except for the E-brakes.

[OldRedFord]

After all the rain we had a few weeks back I took the carpet out of the cab. Im overjoyed at the condition of the floor. NOT. A little bit of water is coming in from the windshield weather stripping.

Far as rust holes go, there is one big one under the gas pedal right were your heel would go. Then there is a small one right at the seam between the floor and kick panel on the passenger side. Other then that just a lot of surface rust. Looks like I will be getting some more POR - 15.

I did clean up the sill plates just to see how clean they would come. Look good enough for this project.

Now as far as the engine...

Got a factory intake and a flex fan off the 460 site. Going to use this cam and lifter kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K3500/ and these headers http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-89140/ Also got a push rod that goes between the brake booster and master cylinder from robroy.

Going to reuse the factory carb, and a 429 points distributor. These can be changed out later.

My next move is to go get the cam and lifter kit, oil pump and pickup, and timing chain.

[OldRedFord]

More pics

[OldRedFord]

One more

[OldRedFord]

I swore I had pics of how I treated the floor but I guess not.

What I did was first I swept all the loose crap out after removing the carpet.
Then got out a wire brush and scrubbed a bit, then coated all the rusty stuff with POR-15 and top coated with some Rustoleum.

Then I went looking for how all the water was getting in. I removed the gauge panel from the dash. Then noticed some staining around where the wiper arms pass through the fire wall.

Next when I was poking around near the heater box on the passenger side, I dislodged a bunch of rust flakes. So out came the firewall cover on that side, and the heater box. Also noticed that the firewall cover (made from some heavy cardboard with what looks like a horse hair backing) seamed to be holding a bit of water.

So at this point the dash is pretty much stripped. Instrument cluster is out. Glove box is out, along with the heater box.

After removing the heater box I removed the passenger side kick panel vent, only to find the inside of the kick panel full of leaves and pine straw. Even with the bottom of the vent opening. The first attached pic shows what I pulled out.

While I had the heater box out I decided to clean it up a bit. I decided I would go ahead and replace the heater core while this was out. Seeing I have no clue about the current heater core. Painted up the heater box and motor.

I also made up some home made thicker seals for where the heater core pipes pass through the fire wall. I also did the same with the studs for the heater box. (there were none before)

[OldRedFord]

Now for the welding.

I started a thread on stick welding sheet metal since that is all I have to work with. I do not have any welding experience with stick and sheet. Thread can be seen here....

http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/sho ... hp?t=22515


So I went down to the lws and picked up some 3/32 6013.

I used a wire wheel to remove the paint and rust, and a 5-in-1 to remove the seam sealer that was in the way.

My patch is made from a piece of 1/8" x 2" flat stock. 12" long.

My welds are not pretty by any means, but they hold. Not bad I think for my first time with stick and thin metal.

I covered my weld beads and the wheel well side of my patch with some polyurathane caulk.

There are two holes in the drivers side floor pan that I am going to temporarily patch with some sheet metal and some sheet metal screws till I get another floor pan for that side.

[dablack00]

I think you are doing a great job. I had all that junk in my vents too so I got some magnetic sheeting and cut a couple of long strips to go over the cowl vents. Now nothing gets in there. Also, don't forget the a new seal between the hood and cowl. It helps keep water away from the firewall.

[OldRedFord]

Put the wheels and tires on that I traded for a while back. 31x10.50x15's

Blasted and painted the transmission hump cover.

Blasted and painted the e-brake assembly.

Removed the drivers side cowl vent and cleaned inside and painted.

Painted inside passenger side cowl.

[1971ford]

YAY finally some more updates
Lookin good!

[OldRedFord]

So I have been trying to finish out the rehab of the brake system on the truck.

Issue that I ran into that was a non-issue before.

The truck may have came with manual brakes and then someone added power brakes.


What seems odd to me..
1. Buy a truck with power steering but no power brakes? Remember these F100s did not have discs in the front.
2. The brake pedal is from a 73-77 F-series, but the bracket for the pedal is for a 67-72 truck. The 73-79 pedal has to be modified a bit to work with the earlier pedal bracket. And to get a 73-77 brake pedal to work with the earlier bracket..you have to grand the pedal pivot down from 3 1/8" to 2 7/8". I see no obvious signs of grinding. Have not taken the pedal out. Will still work tho.

My next issue. I ordered the correct brake booster for a 1972 F100. The rod that goes between the booster and the pedal is WAY longer then the same rod on the booster on my truck. In fact the booster currently on my truck has a extra linkage between the booster and the pedal. Far as I can tell the 67-72 trucks did not have this set up with the extra linkage.

Picture 1 is the linkage between the booster and the rod.
Picture 2 is the new master cylinder and long rod booster.
Picture 3 is the booster that works with the linkage in picture 1.

[OldRedFord]

So your reading this and probably thinking....ORF why don't you just use the brackets that you have now with out the linkage?

The brackets for the booster that was on the truck holds the booster higher then the hole in the firewall. So I had an Idea, why not just swap the brackets side for side, and bottom to top? It looked like this would work...but after I thought about it for a day or two I was concerned about interference with the valve cover on that side of the engine. Also during this time I painted the booster. This negates any chance of returning it I bet. Another problem I ran into is the brackets for the booster are longer (distance between the firewall and booster) then the brackets for a booster with just the push rod. So I am on the hunt for the right brackets. No luck so far.



Look what UPS left at the front door today.
The hard part is having to wait till Christmas.

For more info on the pedals and boosters...
http://www.fordification.com/tech/clutc ... ackets.htm

And just a FYI in case anyone noticed. i did not do any painting near the hot water tank. I had the table in the front of the garage with the door open during painting. But after 3 days I had to clear out the garage so the table was moved to the back.

[1971ford]

oooo that box is fun to get. i remember getting that exact box for my 429



This reminds me. I never got you the pics of the booster brackets. damn

[rjewkes]

ok so what they did was got the brackets and booster from a 73-77.

I know this cuase when i told them it was a 1972 the boosters linkage would reach my pedals but the Studs on back of it were spread out closer together than the holes on the braket where.

so we had to match my old defunked one to the one from 73-76. in 77 they slightly changed the m/c mounting spot from flush to slightly sunken in, but it worked as they didn't have the 73-76 one in stock.

[OldRedFord]

Today I ordered the Holly 3310 750 cfm carb and a valve spring compressor that I will get for Christmas.

Carb
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-65-3310/


Spring compressor
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W89409/

Next I will be ordering the cam & lifter kit, timing set, oil pump and pickup. (non Christmas stuff)

Cam kit for anybody that is wondering.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K3500/

This will finish out the internal engine parts. From there on out (other then a full gasket set) it is all stuff like hoses, water pump etc.

After Christmas I should be able to start on final disassembley and assembly.

[OldRedFord]

Dropped the block off to have new cam bearings and freeze plugs put in.