1970 F100 CV/Thunderbird

[70shortwide]

depends on how strict your track officials are, and what night you go. I have gone on street legal nights several times, they have never failed me in tech. windshield wipers and door handles arent huge safety devices... I know at my local track I would be shocked if they failed you on a street legal night. would be surprising if any track failed you for the wipers, door handles maybe. if you were driving something radical that was going to throw down some fast times they will look closer.

[elgemcdlf]

Picked up an Edelbrock Performer intake today (used) for $80. I think that was a decent buy Did a street/strip shift kit in the C6. Next on the list is the rear gears.

[68bumps]

Some pics from the local cruise in yesterday with a friend of mine's '68 2WD LWB. The wheels on the '68 are the wheels that were on my truck when it was bought. He put a bunch of work into them to get them to shine like that. The IRS drew a bit of attention. It is the very end of the season so there weren't that many people there. Maybe 30 or so. Normal is well over 200.

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I'm curious to know what those rims are from. And what size they are.

[71fordkid]

dsmn, i was hoping to find a picture of your engine mounts in all that. do you have any pics of the new mounts?

[elgemcdlf]

Check this thread

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11258 ... 100-5.html

[elgemcdlf]

I installed pwr windows in my truck some time back with issues. Always had a plan to get back to it & fix my mistakes. When I originally did the install I used the track on my windows which was the beginning of my mistake. The next thing I did wrong was I set the regulator at halfway & mounted based on that with the window halfway up. The track on the bump windows is narrower & shorter. The original track is still on the window in this picture with the F150 track laying on the window just above it



This required grinding the nylon down on the end of the '90 F150 regulators so that it would fit.



This is what the nylon looks like when in the F150.



We start by removing the door panel. I assume most all know how to do that.



You will notice a screw located just above the door panel. This screw is part of what hold the vent window in. You will also notice I have a hole in my door panel. That is where the crank was. In this next image we see 3 screws running up the front of the door. These too help hold the vent window in place.



In this picture you will see I have made 2 cuts in the door to remove the recessed areas. They are in the way of the regulator movement. Just below the regulator gear you see a nut. That is the final piece that holds the vent window in place.



Since we will be changing the track we need to remove the vent window in order to remove the main glass. Once it is removed either you can change the track or you can take it to a local glass shop & they will do it for you. I was going to do mine but the rubber was so far deteriorated I ended up taking it to a glass shop. It cost $10 to have them put it together with new rubber. A great investment in my opinion. Here is the window with the track removed.



Here is the window after I got it back from the glass shop.



You will notice in the picture of the door with the panel removed 3 shiny nuts. Those are what was holding the regulator in place. What you want to do is set the regulator in the all the way down position. At this point when laced into the track You will be able to line up one of the holes with the lower right original regulator hole. You will also notice that the window travels upward through the door on an angle. You want to set the regulator up to match this angle of travel as best as you can. This reduces stress on all the pieces involved. I used 1/4" flat washers that I glued together. In this lower right corner I used 9 washers. I had to move slightly to the left of my original holes from the 1st attempt. In the top right I used 5 washers & top left I used 7. I used a small tie wrap laced through the washers to lower them in place without losing them in the bottom of the door. It worked well.

You major issue in doing this is the hinge mounts at the front of the door but spacing the regulator out to match travel path allows the regulator to clear with no interference. This is a great mod in my opinion that can be accomplished with factory parts. Cost to accomplish is minimal. Regulator with motor & track from Pull A Part is $20.xx per door. Not sure what switches & the harness would cost but I am betting you will come in under $75. Any future problems & you are using off the shelf Ford parts that you can get at any parts store.

[elgemcdlf]

Current picture of our truck.

[tybob81]

Seeing that the lentech transmission held up well behind a 460 sparks my interest! I have blown up Art Carr and Fairbanks AOD's so I will hit them up on my next AOD. I need to become a member on 460.com lots of good stuff on there.

[elgemcdlf]

Seeing that the lentech transmission held up well behind a 460 sparks my interest! I have blown up Art Carr and Fairbanks AOD's so I will hit them up on my next AOD. I need to become a member on 460.com lots of good stuff on there.

It's a great site. It has saved me a bunch of trial & error on making my 460 purr. I took a 220 hp smogger to roughly 350-400hp (flywheel) for $300.

[elgemcdlf]

Once again I am coming for you Bobby! This week is swap out the gears from 3.07 to 3.55. Just lettin' you know I got my sights on you!

[elgemcdlf]

Well went shopping today for rear gears. I could not find any 3.55s I did find 3.27, 3.73 & 4.10. Some with Limited Slip & some open diff. I think I am going to go with the 4.10 Limited Slip. My problem then becomes locating spider gears. The carrier is in an Explorer which should be 31 spline. I need 28 with the MN12. I will most likely put the ring & pinion in with the open diff while locating the spiders I need for the Limited Slip.

[elgemcdlf]

What is this you ask. It is the pinion gear from my 4.10 gears going in my truck!



Here is the Limited Slip carrier. Life is good!



I actually found a set of the 3.55s that I originally wanted today. My wife would have divorced me if I didn't do the 4.10 gears. Ok not really but she did want the lower gears.

[elgemcdlf]

I swapped out the rear gears today from 3.08 to 4.10.

A couple pics from behind after the rear was out of the truck.





The spindle is held on with 3 bolts. I left the axle shaft in the hub & dropped the entire spindle axle shaft & all.









Time to do something about all that grey hair! All you young guys this is what happens to your hair from working on old trucks! I have the gears swapped in this pic. The old gears are sitting on the floor next to me. I was pulling the fill plug from the rear cover in preparation for the install.



Staging for the install.







Getting it under the truck & aligned for install.





Running up the 2 front mount bolts.



Finishing up with getting the spindle back in place.



Final step prior to adding fluid. Reinstalling the driveshaft.



I have not had a chance to do much driving with the new gears yet but what I have done I think I went too far. Quicker? Not so sure. I will probably end up trying either 3.73 gears next or the 3.55 ratio I originally wanted.

[killakobra]

yea, i'm not a real big fan of super low gears.. seems like 3.50's are about the best for the street. my 91 mustang pulls about as good with 3.20ish gears as my friend's car that has 3.73's. Spends too much time shifting.

[JG F100]

4.10s w/o overdrive? I bet its screeming on the highway. So do you plan on upgrading the axles?