Flushing a rearend?
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Flushing a rearend?
Here's a question for those of you with a bit more experience in this matter than I:
I pulled the limited-slip Dana 60 for my project from a parts truck that that's been sitting for many years. What should I do to clean up the internals prior to putting it in use? Will just changing the lubricant be sufficient? What kind of lubricant would be recommended?
If this rearend was a one-legger, I'd just change the fluid and go, but with it being a limited slip, I didn't know if it would be adviseable to do any other cleaning and/or maintenance to it first.
I pulled the limited-slip Dana 60 for my project from a parts truck that that's been sitting for many years. What should I do to clean up the internals prior to putting it in use? Will just changing the lubricant be sufficient? What kind of lubricant would be recommended?
If this rearend was a one-legger, I'd just change the fluid and go, but with it being a limited slip, I didn't know if it would be adviseable to do any other cleaning and/or maintenance to it first.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
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- willowbilly3
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re: Flushing a rearend?
How well do you need the Limited slip to work? They are clutch packs and they wear out. If everything else on the truck is new or rebuilt, then I would freshen it up too. I put a new one in my 72 Dana 60 and aftor about 70,000 miles I could notice it didn't hold as good as it had. I have never replaced those and you may want to take it to a grar shop and let them do it.
As far as running it, just clean it as best you can and make sure to use a good grade of hyphoid lube and maybe add a tube or two of friction modifier. Years ago we got an addative from GM (chevy) but I think Ford has a good one or a product called Equ-torque, probably others too.
BTW if you still had the unit in the truck, with one wheel on the ground and a torque wrench in the theoretical center of the other, it should take about 260 ft.lbs. of torque to make it slip.
As far as running it, just clean it as best you can and make sure to use a good grade of hyphoid lube and maybe add a tube or two of friction modifier. Years ago we got an addative from GM (chevy) but I think Ford has a good one or a product called Equ-torque, probably others too.
BTW if you still had the unit in the truck, with one wheel on the ground and a torque wrench in the theoretical center of the other, it should take about 260 ft.lbs. of torque to make it slip.
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- jck_in_nc
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re: Flushing a rearend?
I don't have an answer, but a follow-up question for a peg-legger. In addition to flushing, what all do you do? Axle seals? Pinion seal? Synthetic fluid?
jck
jck
- Jondon
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re: Flushing a rearend?
This might work on a rearend too....
I cleaned all the sludge out of a NP205 TC by draining out what fluid I could, filled it up with diesel fuel, took it around the block and drained out the diesel. I did that twice, took off the inspection plate and it was pristine on the inside.
Maybe if it's off the truck, add the diesel and roll the axle around .
Just a thought,
John
I cleaned all the sludge out of a NP205 TC by draining out what fluid I could, filled it up with diesel fuel, took it around the block and drained out the diesel. I did that twice, took off the inspection plate and it was pristine on the inside.
Maybe if it's off the truck, add the diesel and roll the axle around .
Just a thought,
John
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- heep70
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re: Flushing a rearend?
FORDification, Is it a Power-loc or Trac-loc center? Replace the clutch packs is a must. I did both my d44 and my d60 Power-locs last summer. I put smooth disks in the front and abrasive disks in the back. The abrasive disk are really aggresive. They all wear in time depending on the type of use. Use a friction modifier, but do some asking on the amount to add. The more you put in the more aggresive the clutches get. If you add to much, watch out for overheating issues. Use 80-140 gear oil with out the friction modifier if you are adding it by the tube. The Power-locs are easier to rebuild then the Trac-locs.
Greg
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
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2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
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My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
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My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
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re: Flushing a rearend?
Hey Greg...how do you tell if it's a Power-loc or Trac-loc? What are the differences and which is preferred?
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
- 68F250
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re: Flushing a rearend?
A friend of mine belongs to a tractor club and he says to flush with diesel fuel or kerosene, won't hurt the seals. Put the rear up on jackstands so there is no load on the gears or bearings and run it for 10 minutes. I think maybe take the wheels off so you don't have those big suckers spinning? He didn't say how fast to go.
Edit: I just read now that it's loose, never mind....
Edit: I just read now that it's loose, never mind....
- heep70
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Re: re: Flushing a rearend?
A power-loc, the spiders are in cased to where you can't see them. The case splits and is held together with bolts.FORDification wrote:Hey Greg...how do you tell if it's a Power-loc or Trac-loc? What are the differences and which is preferred?
The Trac-locs look like a regular open style center just a bit beefer though. The case does not split and you can clearly see the spiders.
Do you have a pic of the one you have?
Greg
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
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re: Flushing a rearend?
I just recently bought a J truck that has a trac lock in it. We drained and filled the case. I made sure to add the friction modifier. It still worked like a champ. Trac-locks are easily rebuilt. Pull the carrier. I have built up a couple of axles. The only thing I haven't messed with yet is gear set up. (Haven't had the time to mess with that) You should be able to call someone like Randy's R&P and ask for a trac-lock rebuild kit for the model year of your axle. The kit ought to come with some kind of instructions. I don't think it would be too difficult, just time consuming pulling the shafts and very messy with gear oil and all...
The Jeep guy.
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re: Flushing a rearend?
I haven't had the cover off mine yet to take a look. I'll make sure to do that the next time I get some shop time in. Thanks!
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
- heep70
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re: Flushing a rearend?
Its more than likely a Trac-loc. They are a dime a dozen. The Power-locs are tougher and very responsive, but really the Trac-locs are just as responsive just can't handle tons of power.
Greg
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
- duckbill59
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re: Flushing a rearend?
Although off the path of flushing rear ends, where do you get the rebuild clutch discs for either the power-loc or trac-loc rear ends? Local auto part store/Ford dealer/aftermarket? Thanks
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Re: re: Flushing a rearend?
Check Randy's Ring and Pinion. Reider Racing. Anywhere that would sell differential parts. May be 4 Wheel parts. I would have a part number in hand before I go there. They aren't always the sharpest bunch in the world. Randy's usually has the best prices.duckbill59 wrote:Although off the path of flushing rear ends, where do you get the rebuild clutch discs for either the power-loc or trac-loc rear ends? Local auto part store/Ford dealer/aftermarket? Thanks
The Jeep guy.
- heep70
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re: Flushing a rearend?
Get some prices then go to http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/ He will give you a better price. I paid $40 for my Power-loc kit (one kit).
Greg
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics