Installing Edelbrock intake and 4 bbl carb on 390

[Rocky390]

Hi all, newbie here.

Would installing a new Edelbrock intake manifold and 4 bbl carb be something that a typical novice gearhead could perform on a 390 FE?

I'm not a mechanic, but I can do basic things like change spark plugs, change out valve cover gaskets, etc. Given that I'm able to perform these basic tasks, is it safe to assume I could change out the carb and intake manifold myself?

Sorry for the very general question, just trying to get some input before I get too deep into a driveway project... I'm sure some of you can understand.

Thanks in advance for any input!

[cep62]

Welcome to our site.

Well it's not rocket surgery but there are some steps that need to be followed.
It would be a good idea to read some manuals before you start.
The 390s pushrods go through the intake so be careful not to mix them up.
Now the question , why? If you're going to put on a 600cfm 4bbl you can save money and put a 500cfm 2bbl on the stock intake.
If your motor is stock you probably won't notice the missing 100 cfm.
And post back with any more questions , it's a little slow around here but we try not to steer you wrong.

[DuckRyder]

If you have suffienct tools (a torque wrench and maybe a right angle adapter, timing light) and the ability to follow directions its shouldn't be a problem.

Check out Brents You tube (Lykins Motorsports) and the Christ book and Barry R book.

Order an oil pump drive shaft too there's a fair chance you may lose it into the oil pan.

[Rocky390]

Welcome to our site.

Well it's not rocket surgery but there are some steps that need to be followed.
It would be a good idea to read some manuals before you start.
The 390s pushrods go through the intake so be careful not to mix them up.
Now the question , why? If you're going to put on a 600cfm 4bbl you can save money and put a 500cfm 2bbl on the stock intake.
If your motor is stock you probably won't notice the missing 100 cfm.
And post back with any more questions , it's a little slow around here but we try not to steer you wrong.

Gents, thanks for the replies. Based off the feedback, I think I may opt with leaving my stock intake and just going with a new carb. I watched a few tutorials, and it appears as if replacing the carb is something I should be able to tackle on my own without having a brain aneurysm.

So....with that said. An Edelbrock performance 4bbl carb would would on my stock 390 intake, correct?

Comparatively-speaking and performace-wise... what does a 4bbl carb offer that a 2bbl does not?

Thanks again for your inputs.

20240216_105703.jpg

[DuckRyder]

The Holley 500 cfm 2BBL is the popular (perhaps only) choice.

No point in putting a 4bbl on the stock manifold with adapters or such.

Little point in a 4bbl on a performer or stockish manifold without other mods like cam and headers. If you’re going to go to the trouble of changing the manifold I personally would do a blue thunder or Edelbrock RPM.

Headers, exhaust cam you biggest gains with 4 BBL.

[zgerbic]

Just to clarify things...
You currently have a stock 2bbl manifold, right?
If yes then get a 500CFM 2bbl carb, for a Ford FE engine. Different trucks have different linkage attachments on the side of the carb for both the throttle and the transmission kick down linkage. )
The choke on a newer carb will likely be electric, you did not state the year of the truck so if it uses a manual choke linkage you will need a carb that accepts a manual linkage, or you will need to run a separate +12V switched ignition wire out to the carb to run the electric choke.
Also as you might see in the videos, there is an adapter plate under the carb that provides carb heat when cold and may also keep the throttle linkage from hitting the manifold. Make sure you look at what you have now and what you will need to attach the new carb.

While there is a temptation to put a 600CFM or larger carb on the engine, as pointed out above you need to change at least the exhaust and probably the cam. A bigger carb inlet will need a way to flow the air through the engine and then out through the exhaust. Exhaust restriction negates any improvement in intake.

Also for a heavy truck, you will want to select a carb that is a little toward smaller than bigger or you will risk disappointment in the results.

[SoCal250]

I would like to add my experience with the following mods performed on my 69 250 390 C6 before and after with AFR gauge seat of the pants Dyno to help aid your decision.
Truck Specs :
2bbl intake , Stock Truck Heads ,Headers ,mild comp cam 265/275 , 3:73 Dana 60 rear end C6 auto trans .

Mod #1 : 1 " Spacer Holly 350 cfm 2 bbl primary size is close to a 650 cfm 4bbl primary size jets 64/66 main jet great tourqe great power great top end 4,700 RPM not so great gas mileage do to rear gears no overdrive 8-10 mpg fwy had this for 3 yrs or so did burnouts with ease and overall Happy Camper .

Mod #2 500 cfm Holly 2bbl 1" spacer and tried 1/2" spacer seemed like way more top end instant power plenty of smiles and burnout fun although despite the name 500 CFM it's actually 1/2 of a Holly 750 DP and it shares its primary size and takes a 74/76 main jet at sea level so your almost 10 jet sizes bigger than the 350 cfm.
Gas milage should not be considered here it wants gas to perform and uses twice the juice as the 350 to do basically the same I was told by jomar Performance it's actually 375 cfm the noticable gains will be in higher RPM range but still under 5,000 with my 3:73 rear end .

Mod #3 Edelbrock Performer RPM intake not recommended unless your planning on doing some major mods , high flow heads , headers , cam , possible valve train mods Roller Rockers etc for the RPM results or in my results a waste of money....... Install was not hard but with the Edelbrock RPM all the pushrods go through the intake the stock Boat anchor 2bbl and 4bbl
Only a few go through clearance was needed and Dremeling out material was required for pushrod clearance.
Not to mention a RPM intake is around $700 now I switched to a Holly 600 CFM 4160 VS manual choke 64/65 main jet 72/74 rear jet sea level 4150 rear block instead of plate 1" carb spacer . I noticed immediately despite the extra 2bbl and the slight gain in umph i was underwhelmed the RPM intake is overkill for a stock 390 it was made for a built 390 with serious mods or the 429 FE not Truck heads with small exhaust ports.

The regular performer Eddy or even Stock Boat anchor S coded cast iron 4BBl that i had bought on offer up for 75 bucks and didn't use it ? Would had given better results with the lower risers better tourqe and mid range because the RPM factor on a stock head truck 390 with bolt ons ? I'm under 5,000 RPM . The gains were better gas milage cruising because of the smaller primary bores slightly smaller than the 350 CFM 2bbl and the secondary power when you need it although I still do not think a stock truck head 360/390 will use all the 600cfm since I tried a 750 cfm as well and at WOT i did notice any gains over the 600 in RPM .

Mod #4 Best Bang for my buck Gear Vendors Overdrive
What I noticed was at higher RPM 55-65-70 MPH The 3 spd C6 will not kick down for instant passing power or performance power because the speed is to fast for a 3rd to 2nd drop a drop to 2nd gear at 65 is way to fast for 2nd gear but the GV does it kicks out of OD and kicks it down to 3rd just like a 4 spd And you have that kick but seat of the pants throw the head back feeling we all want.
All this being said I wish I spent all the money on a gear vendor first without changing over to a four-barrel because I probably would have been a lot happier with the kickdown feature and only the two barrel carburetor.