68 F250 "special" Camper Special Project

[sargentrs]

Great work and thanks for posting your swap!

[hot-rod]

Hi Chris,

great job I am also considering changing the steering. My truck has come without power steering But i'm thinking about installing an electric power steering
Where did you get all the parts from?


best regards
Dirk

[cash667]

Hi Chris,

great job I am also considering changing the steering. My truck has come without power steering But i'm thinking about installing an electric power steering
Where did you get all the parts from?


best regards
Dirk

Hi Dirk,
This swap should also work for 67-72 Trucks which didnt come with factory power steering. You need to buy the gearbox (Saginaw Style), a Power steering Pump and the column. I bought both gearbox and column used in germany for about 110€ each. I will also buy a new power steering pump from Rockauto because mine is very noisy.

Electrical power steering could get you some issues with keeping your „H - Registration“

Cheers from germany
Chris

[cash667]

little Update:
after successful gearbox swap its time for disassambling everything.
I removed the cab and put it on little wheels to keep it movable in my workshop.



Now all other Stuff is easy accessible and removable. Driveshaft, exhaust, transmission, everything out!



Next step was removing intake and heads to get a closer look into the engine



It looks ok - measurement seems that someone already overbored it to +0.02".



next surprise will be crankshaft and rod bearings - hopefully they look not to bad.
After I have seen these, I will make a decision what I do with the engine...

Cheers from Germany
Chris

[hfdco4]

That engine looks pretty good. The other good thing is parts are still available for the 429/460. You will have a great truck once you are done!

[cash667]

Hi Paul!
Thanks, totally agree with you, looks not so bad so far.
Engine is now out of the frame and ready for closer checking.



I did some smaller progress but maybe you had the same thing:
after removing the engine I started to remove brake lines and hoses, also the pressure switch and the metering block since I have a factory discbrake F250.
The problem on the pressure switch is: it´s a pain to get the piston out of the brass housing. Even when you opened the big screw on the side you wont get it with a plier out...they have been sitting for over 50 years on the same position. You can leave them and hope that the pressure switch still works, but I´m a fan of cheching and cleaning. I did the same on the pressure switch on my cougar.
You have to drill a small hole on the opposite side of the big screw/brake line fitting.


That done, you can punch out the piston with a small srewdriver etc.


When it´s out, drill a thread in the hole. After that clean everything carefully!! You can now use a small screw to seal the hole.


To be sure I used JB Weld to seal and clue the screw into the housing.
clean the piston, if necessary use new O-rings and put it back in with a little grease.


To check if the piston is in middle position, you can use a multimeter. You need to put the switch back in the brass housing, one multimeter tip on the contacts of the switch, the other on the brass housing. You will read continuity (or the continuity sound) unless you push the piston back in its middle position. In middle position you will have no reading on the multimeter.
Thats it! Now you can put it back into the brake system!

I also started with removing wheels on the front and brake parts, every brake component looks very good so far!



Cheers from germany
Chris

[hfdco4]

Very nice step by step process. Thanks for that sir. Great to see your progress too!

[cash667]

little update:
rear axle is out now and frame back on new wheels to have it movable




I started to repaint the first parts, including front I-Beam and rear leaf springs. The leafsprings are first coated with "Owatrol Oil" and all parts are painted with 2K PUR paint. Very strong and you can apply it without primer.




I also disassambeled the complete rear axle:


Diffenrential is good as it is. Just did a little inspection and teeth counting to verify what I got. 3.73 Dana60 non Locking.

A few questions regarding parts sources came up the last days:
- where can I get JUST front cab mounts?
- where can I get rubber bushings for front and rear shocks? Just the bushings??

Cheers from germany
Chris

[hfdco4]

When you ask about cab mounts, are you looking for the rubber part or the metal part on the cab itself?

[cash667]

When you ask about cab mounts, are you looking for the rubber part or the metal part on the cab itself?

Hi Paul,
I just need the rubber parts, just the front rubber mounts.

Cheers
Chris

[hfdco4]

Are the metal sleeves still good?

[cash667]

Are the metal sleeves still good?

Nee Rubber with metal sleeves would be best, but in case that I just get the rubber single, I‘ll use the old metal sleeves.

Rear cab mounts are good. Looks like someone had them replaced short time ago.

Cheers
Chris

[sargentrs]

Great work!

[cash667]

Update:
rear axle is back in black with new gaskets:


transmission also got new gaskets all around and its painted and ready for install:



since the old T98 shifter has no BU Light switch, I need to make one by myself:

its a modified switch out of a german light truck.

engine is now completely disassembled:




crankshaft bearing surfaces are not in good shape... connecting rod surfaces are just a little better,,..
I´ll try to get a good crankshaft in germany. If not, I´ll put this thing together as it is and drive it till it´s death
Bore and pistons are 0.03" over and I´ll just put new rings on.
Everything else on the block is in good shape...

Cheers from germany
Chris

[390FE1972]

Looks like your making great progress! Thanks for the update.

Regards