1970 F100 Door Treads
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1970 F100 Door Treads
Can someone tell me what screws/bolts are used for the aluminum door tread that covers each door gasket along the bottom of the door jam?
I've restored both treads that came loose from the PO (& no h/w), but after body work, seaming, and spraying the holes, are now partially filled. I can't tell what was originally in there. Looks like one larger bolt forward on the flange, and #8 or #10 screws/bolts along the bottom?
Thanks!
I've restored both treads that came loose from the PO (& no h/w), but after body work, seaming, and spraying the holes, are now partially filled. I can't tell what was originally in there. Looks like one larger bolt forward on the flange, and #8 or #10 screws/bolts along the bottom?
Thanks!
1970 Ranger Styleside, LWB, Harbor Blue
416, C6, man brakes & steering
416, C6, man brakes & steering
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Re: 1970 F100 Door Treads
Ranchero, can you tell me what size, #8, #10? Thank you.
1970 Ranger Styleside, LWB, Harbor Blue
416, C6, man brakes & steering
416, C6, man brakes & steering
- Ranchero50
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Re: 1970 F100 Door Treads
Same as the ones that hold the instrument cluster in.
'70 F-350 CS Cummins 6BT 10klb truck 64k mile Bahama Blue
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
- jimmy828
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Re: 1970 F100 Door Treads
I used #8 x 1" along the floor and #8x1/2" in kick panel. Really don't know what factory screws were but the # 8 fit fine. Used stainless also
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Re: 1970 F100 Door Treads
Thanks Jimmy.
1970 Ranger Styleside, LWB, Harbor Blue
416, C6, man brakes & steering
416, C6, man brakes & steering
- basketcase0302
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Re: 1970 F100 Door Treads
To add to what Jimmy said these screws are also "oval head" so as to not pull through the thin aluminum (slightly different than the flat head you'll find at the hardware store).
But flat head should hold them down.
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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Re: 1970 F100 Door Treads
Thanks all. The #8 screws did the trick, except on one side someone before me drilled out the hole to 1/4", so it's bolt, washer and nut time. Sucks, and now I have a bigger problem.
I was SO excited to get the truck back from the paint shop, (hood in back) Been taking a lot of heat for the spare bedroom full of parts, but now the pile is disappearing. Beyond all the new door gaskets, divider and door glass runs, fuzzies, etc., I finally got a chance to install my $75, home-made door panels. All new material, from the wonder-board blanks I copied from the old panels, to the stitched vinyl and 3M burl. They came out great and I was pumped. The wonder board is a little thicker than the original press board, so the panel clips took a little muscle to mount. The bigger issue was the thin upholstery foam I backed the vinyl with. You can probably guess where this is going...clearance issues with both the door latch studs and the regulator spline.
No way the door latch studs will clear the new panel with the plastic insert that looks so nice. Part of the problem is that the latch inserts themselves don't sit down far enough in the first place. There's about 1/4" air gap to the steel behind them. But I can make 'em work by cutting out a piece of the insert with a Fein tool large enough for just the latch plate. It's basically hidden behind door handle and looking down you always see the latch plate either way. So until I get both doors fully rebuilt the two latch inserts will remain in the spare bedroom. What I can't make work is the window handle. The regulator spline just barely clears. To get the handle connected I had the torque the handle bolt way too high, essentially to compress the door panel itself. Works, but very hard to crank, and makes an unpleasant noise...probably the regulator cog telling me something.
My first thought was finding similar window handles with (perhaps?) a longer receiver to get onto the regulator spline without compressing the panel. Maybe from another Ford of earlier or later vintage? Any other ideas?
I hate to part with these door panels. They were a long labor of love to get them right, I only screwed up at the very end with the layer of foam.
Thanks.
I was SO excited to get the truck back from the paint shop, (hood in back) Been taking a lot of heat for the spare bedroom full of parts, but now the pile is disappearing. Beyond all the new door gaskets, divider and door glass runs, fuzzies, etc., I finally got a chance to install my $75, home-made door panels. All new material, from the wonder-board blanks I copied from the old panels, to the stitched vinyl and 3M burl. They came out great and I was pumped. The wonder board is a little thicker than the original press board, so the panel clips took a little muscle to mount. The bigger issue was the thin upholstery foam I backed the vinyl with. You can probably guess where this is going...clearance issues with both the door latch studs and the regulator spline.
No way the door latch studs will clear the new panel with the plastic insert that looks so nice. Part of the problem is that the latch inserts themselves don't sit down far enough in the first place. There's about 1/4" air gap to the steel behind them. But I can make 'em work by cutting out a piece of the insert with a Fein tool large enough for just the latch plate. It's basically hidden behind door handle and looking down you always see the latch plate either way. So until I get both doors fully rebuilt the two latch inserts will remain in the spare bedroom. What I can't make work is the window handle. The regulator spline just barely clears. To get the handle connected I had the torque the handle bolt way too high, essentially to compress the door panel itself. Works, but very hard to crank, and makes an unpleasant noise...probably the regulator cog telling me something.
My first thought was finding similar window handles with (perhaps?) a longer receiver to get onto the regulator spline without compressing the panel. Maybe from another Ford of earlier or later vintage? Any other ideas?
I hate to part with these door panels. They were a long labor of love to get them right, I only screwed up at the very end with the layer of foam.
Thanks.
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1970 Ranger Styleside, LWB, Harbor Blue
416, C6, man brakes & steering
416, C6, man brakes & steering
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Re: 1970 F100 Door Treads
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thr ... rt.181748/
I don't know if this will link , but I'll try.
As for the too big hole on the step sills , there are a crimp in insert some people call well nuts that should cure the problem.
I don't know if this will link , but I'll try.
As for the too big hole on the step sills , there are a crimp in insert some people call well nuts that should cure the problem.
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Re: 1970 F100 Door Treads
Thanks for the lead, amazingly those guys are still selling their extenders on Ebay after all these years.
While I was on the site, I stumbled onto something else. Daniel Carpenter Mustang apparently sells a repro with a longer crank shaft for use with their thicker "Deluxe" door panel. A third party was selling a pair for $14 as previously owned, but they looked new. Even though listed for 68-72 Mustang, the cranks look identical to mine and I'm betting the spline on the Mustang regulator likewise identical. If so, problem solved.
Does anyone know whether the 68-72 window regulator spline is the same as in our trucks? 16 teeth I believe? Thanks.
While I was on the site, I stumbled onto something else. Daniel Carpenter Mustang apparently sells a repro with a longer crank shaft for use with their thicker "Deluxe" door panel. A third party was selling a pair for $14 as previously owned, but they looked new. Even though listed for 68-72 Mustang, the cranks look identical to mine and I'm betting the spline on the Mustang regulator likewise identical. If so, problem solved.
Does anyone know whether the 68-72 window regulator spline is the same as in our trucks? 16 teeth I believe? Thanks.
1970 Ranger Styleside, LWB, Harbor Blue
416, C6, man brakes & steering
416, C6, man brakes & steering
- sargentrs
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Re: 1970 F100 Door Treads
Great work on the door panels!
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.