I’ve restored 70xlt. Gas gauge as well as others were working fine, then all quit. I changed the voltage regulator (??) on back of dash and still no luck. I’ve noticed some wear on the plug ins on the dash when disconnecting the dash for removal, actually the plug is fine but the metal strips are worn and loose on the back of the dash. Please send advice.
Thx
70xlt
Gas gauge quit
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Re: Gas gauge quit
Sounds like you probably need a printed circuit board.
I believe a 70 is a specific one year only one.
SEE: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =8&t=86603 We (OK I) start talking about printed circuits on page 2.
I believe a 70 is a specific one year only one.
SEE: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =8&t=86603 We (OK I) start talking about printed circuits on page 2.
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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Re: Gas gauge quit
I managed to do a very delicate repair to the copper fingers on the flexible printed circuit for my '70.70xlt wrote:I’ve restored 70xlt. Gas gauge as well as others were working fine, then all quit. I changed the voltage regulator (??) on back of dash and still no luck. I’ve noticed some wear on the plug ins on the dash when disconnecting the dash for removal, actually the plug is fine but the metal strips are worn and loose on the back of the dash. Please send advice.
Thx
70xlt
Under magnification, I was able to superglue the fingers back where they belong on the circuit board.
I used the pointed ends of toothpicks to apply partial drops of glue so that it only went onto the backs of the fingers (didn't want superglue on the tops of the fingers, thought it might act as an insulator).
Toothpicks with no glue on them were used to hold the fingers in place until the superglue set.
The process was tedious, but cheap.
This wouldn't have worked except that the fingers were still electrically connected to their appropriate circuits.
If the fingers actually break off from their circuits, you could try drawing them back in place with a conductive ink pen. You'd have to draw all the way back to the place where the conductive trace broke.
Fix your Instrument Cluster connection, then tell us if the circuits are working again. I get a feeling that you may have more than one problem here.
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Re: Gas gauge quit
Thanks for info. I did rebuild on truck, used old wiring harness, all seemed good when reinstalled. I put the voltage regulator on back of dash 1st, next I recleaned the and reattached the steps on the metal strips on the female part of the plug in, still no luck. Also, the heater fan is not working, are these from the same origin? Where is the best place to buy the printed circuit system for the back of the dash cluster? I'm not a good auto mechanic so any info is greatly appreciated.
70XLT
70XLT
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Re: Gas gauge quit
I'm curious, which engine does your XLT have, and does it use gauges or idiot lights?70xlt wrote:Thanks for info. I did rebuild on truck, used old wiring harness, all seemed good when reinstalled. I put the voltage regulator on back of dash 1st, next I recleaned the and reattached the steps on the metal strips on the female part of the plug in, still no luck. Also, the heater fan is not working, are these from the same origin? Where is the best place to buy the printed circuit system for the back of the dash cluster? I'm not a good auto mechanic so any info is greatly appreciated.
70XLT
Mac's has one for an instrument cluster with gauges, specific to 1970, P/N 48-377526-1, $72.49 & shipping.
https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_truc ... -1970.html
At that price, I'll keep repairing mine until I can no longer repair it...
Your heater fan failure is likely a separate issue.
I'd suggest that you fix what you know is wrong before you try to find out what's causing other problems.