Need help with body work
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- windhamdw
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- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2015 2:39 pm
- Location: Columbia, TN
Need help with body work
I have attached two pics i Need a little help with anyone have any advice on how to fix the rust spot and what to do with the holes, also the supplies that i will need.? Just remember this is my first shot at body work
Thanks
Thanks
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- Jacksdad
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Re: Need help with body work
Take the area around the rust down to bare metal - there's more lurking under that paint unfortunately. You need to know what you're dealing with before you can start planning how to repair it.
The trim holes can be welded up easily enough if you have access to a Mig welder.
The trim holes can be welded up easily enough if you have access to a Mig welder.
1971 DRW F350 cab and chassis with an Open Road motorhome conversion, Dana 70, 352 (originally 390)/C6, PS, power front discs, and 159" w/b.
- windhamdw
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- Location: Columbia, TN
Re: Need help with body work
Thank for the reply, I will bring it down and see what it looks like. I think I can get a mig welded, I will have to check.
Thanks.
Thanks.
- Jacksdad
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Re: Need help with body work
Small holes like that are not difficult if you take your time and don't try to fill it in one shot, and using a piece of copper held against the back of the panel can help. Eastwood sells magnetic copper backers for jobs like this - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huPdLOIA438
Rust around the drip rail can be challenging, so you need to know the full extent of the damage - take off all the paint/bondo/sealant until you reach good metal so you know exactly what you're dealing with.
Good luck
Rust around the drip rail can be challenging, so you need to know the full extent of the damage - take off all the paint/bondo/sealant until you reach good metal so you know exactly what you're dealing with.
Good luck
1971 DRW F350 cab and chassis with an Open Road motorhome conversion, Dana 70, 352 (originally 390)/C6, PS, power front discs, and 159" w/b.
- windhamdw
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- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2015 2:39 pm
- Location: Columbia, TN
Re: Need help with body work
Thanks for the info on the holes, I got the part all cleane up and here is what it looks like.
Do i just use bondo?
Thanks
Do i just use bondo?
Thanks
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Re: Need help with body work
If you haven't removed headliner, now is the time. Get a light and mirror to inspect all around that seam inside. I had a cab that looked ok from outside but water migrated through that seam and rusted above windshield frame, inside.
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Re: Need help with body work
To correctly and permanently repair this, some metal will have to be replaced. That means mig or tig welding. It's relatively easy to make a patch panel, weld it in and grind it smooth. Don't be intimidated, complete morons make their living doing body work.
1967 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
- windhamdw
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- Posts: 92
- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2015 2:39 pm
- Location: Columbia, TN
Re: Need help with body work
It currently doesn't have a head liner so that will be easy to check.
I now I will.have to see if I can borrow a welder from someone, I did replace one of the fenders, can I use some of the metal from that?
Thanks
I now I will.have to see if I can borrow a welder from someone, I did replace one of the fenders, can I use some of the metal from that?
Thanks
- Jacksdad
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Re: Need help with body work
Absolutely - it'll be the same gauge mild steel. Nice stuff to work with
Bondo will only hold for so long before the metal around it starts to rust again. New metal is the way to go, and I'd clean up the edges of the hole and patch it from behind if possible. Make sure you're welding to clean sheet metal, and go around the edge with lots of tacks rather than long welds so you don't get distortion. Move around so you don't put too much heat in one spot, and when you have enough tacks that they overlap all the way around, grind it flush and make it look pretty with bondo. Don't be afraid to break out hammers and dollies before, during and after either.
Bondo will only hold for so long before the metal around it starts to rust again. New metal is the way to go, and I'd clean up the edges of the hole and patch it from behind if possible. Make sure you're welding to clean sheet metal, and go around the edge with lots of tacks rather than long welds so you don't get distortion. Move around so you don't put too much heat in one spot, and when you have enough tacks that they overlap all the way around, grind it flush and make it look pretty with bondo. Don't be afraid to break out hammers and dollies before, during and after either.
1971 DRW F350 cab and chassis with an Open Road motorhome conversion, Dana 70, 352 (originally 390)/C6, PS, power front discs, and 159" w/b.
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- Blue Oval Fanatic
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Re: Need help with body work
Something that motivates me is Gibson 63 on youtube. This guy is a hick construction worker that simply dives in and gets it done. He has worked miracles with his 63 chevy and metal patch panel replacement.
1967 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
- windhamdw
- New Member
- Posts: 92
- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2015 2:39 pm
- Location: Columbia, TN
Re: Need help with body work
Busboy that guy is good, i wish i was that good.
Update i finally got it all done i cut out the spots in the cab part and welded in a new piece, i wish i took a pic of welds because everyone would get a good laugh at it but the grinding and bondo took care of that. also patched in the the trim whole with little pieces also and those welded looks a little better.
the first pic is of the truck when i first got and the other two are with the primer on it. i hope to get the paint on in a few weeks.
Thanks for all the good info.
Update i finally got it all done i cut out the spots in the cab part and welded in a new piece, i wish i took a pic of welds because everyone would get a good laugh at it but the grinding and bondo took care of that. also patched in the the trim whole with little pieces also and those welded looks a little better.
the first pic is of the truck when i first got and the other two are with the primer on it. i hope to get the paint on in a few weeks.
Thanks for all the good info.
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- Jacksdad
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- Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:52 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
Re: Need help with body work
It looks great. I like the color of that primer - never thought about a yellow bump before
1971 DRW F350 cab and chassis with an Open Road motorhome conversion, Dana 70, 352 (originally 390)/C6, PS, power front discs, and 159" w/b.
- windhamdw
- New Member
- Posts: 92
- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2015 2:39 pm
- Location: Columbia, TN
Re: Need help with body work
My kids love it and want me to leave it yellow and call it Big Bird. I can't do it, going to paint it flat black using the John Deer paint.