Window Seals

[morganater]

I have something really embarassing to admit. The cork or whatever type of weatherstripping that is at the bottom of the windows looks really old and crappy and leaves a huge gap in which for water to pour into my door from. Also, You can roll down my windows using your hands from the outside of the truck. The windows are also very rattly in the door. I was wondering how to replace this. I know I don't have to replace the vent window weatherstripping which is a GREAT thing, but I was wondering if this is a hard undertaking. I looked at the tutorial in the online dennis-carpenter catalog, but that is for the vent windows.

[jor]

You can buy new seals from a number of sources and they aren't too bad to put in. The hardest part is removing the window. After that you just stuff the new seal into the track.
jor

[FORDification]

As for being able to push your window down from the outside, that would be your window regulators....sounds like they're extremely worn out. Sounds like another run to the salvage yard.

[morganater]

*removing the window* yikes!!!!
Does anyone have a good tutorial on this or diagram of the inside of the door?

[FORDification]

Don't worry, it's VERY easy.

1) Remove the door panel
2) Remove the 4 bolts holding the regulator to the door panel and gently lower the regulator/glass assembly down to the bottom of the door.
3) Slide the regulator off the glass channel and remove through the access hole.
4) Remove the door fuzzies (since the glass assembly won't fit up through there with them in place).
5) Slide the glass up and out.

When removing the door glass you'll also have to remove the vent window assembly to get the door glass out, which is only a couple screws on the top and one nut on the bottom of the channel.

[wt4speed]

Funny thing this topic just so happens this is what I spent my weekend doing . Was in Okie City on Wednesday last week, neat place a little pricey butlike 7-11 was a "convience" thing, picked up the kit for window anti- rattle could have order it from LMC about 30 bucks less .but like i said "conveince".
This whole ordeal started while I was out scavanging for my 302 engine stands , I came across a set of premo wing window assys. all ruber in I'd say 90% condition picked them up aswell as a set of factory seat tracks , complete matching color seatbelts less right side retractor for $50.00. installed wing window assys and run channels dividerbar runs and anti rattle runs or glass wipers as i think they should be called in a couple of hours per side . If your gonna take the time to tear it down clean regulator and squirt lubriplate in every hole you can,it makes a great difference. I actually did left side on thurs nite,when I went and got 302 stands Friday I got left a side window regulator (a very rare scrap yard find) in about 4 times better shape than mine,so ended up taking down left side again worth the effort.And low and behold put right side back together window wouldn't go up or down with out great effort , pulled back down lubricated crank housing teeth on lifter and roller and wow. Every task worth performing .
I picked up stands , window regulator left side, wiper resivoir ,and door seals out of 89-90 exploder perfect fit,for $10.00 bucks , 85% of trucks rattles gone, no more wind tunnel syndrome at highway cruising altitude.

Tony B
DFW Area
6mine9

[67f100]

Tony, are you saying the window regulator out of a 90' Explorer is a bolt on for a 67'-72' pickup?

[wt4speed]

No I was refering to the door seals ,the left side regulator i got off '70 long bed

[morganater]

Thanks a lot keith for the information. My truck is in the shop right now getting the rollpan welded on all nicely, and some replacement motor mounts fabricated, along with new rubber since mine was cracked. So I won't be able to get to it for a few days. I am kind of upset because we've accumulated 12 inches today in snow and its still going!!! Does anyone have any window regulators I may buy, since u suggested mine are worn out. Also, another newbie question. Does anyone have a good suggestion as to how to get the armrest off without mutilating it? This is to get at the door handles to remove them, of course. Or an idea of the size those bolts are supposed to be, becuase the break in the rest to access them is tiny and I cant see much.

[68F250]

3/8"

Use a nut driver or a deep socket 'cause a short one will disconnect from the extension when you pull it out and get stuck in the hole.

[FORDification]

3/8"

Use a nut driver or a deep socket 'cause a short one will disconnect from the extension when you pull it out and get stuck in the hole.

Been there, done that! Now I ONLY use nut drivers. Those sockets are a major PIA to get out out once they get stuck in there.

[mont974x4]

LMC has anti-rattle kits. I was thinking about ordering one. Anyone play with these yet?

[shrektruck]

Kieth &68F250 wrote:
3/8"

Use a nut driver or a deep socket 'cause a short one will disconnect from the extension when you pull it out and get stuck in the hole.


Been there, done that! Now I ONLY use nut drivers. Those sockets are a major PIA to get out out once they get stuck in there.

Sure, but if you leave one in each hole they're a lot easier to get off next time!

[crazy larry]

LMC has anti-rattle kits. I was thinking about ordering one. Anyone play with these yet?

I have a set on my truck. they work great.
swapped a set to Cobraf100, don't know if he's gotten them in yet or not. probably not.

[FORDification]

Sure, but if you leave one in each hole they're a lot easier to get off next time!

That's true!